These were the first words my friend indignantly said to the inn owner after we made it back from a hike that he had given us directions for. He may or may not have been in the middle of a conversation with a stranger at that particular moment, but it didn’t really matter.
When we were in Manali, we kept hearing about Jogni Falls. Everyone goes there. Anyone can do the hike. You can get behind the waterfall in a concave of sorts and take great pictures. Sounds perfect to us. We got directions from the inn keeper and set off on a hike through the woods and a couple of villages. We were told to go past the waterfall and then come at it from the right side because that was the easiest path. There is another really difficult path that goes straight up the mountain to the waterfall but “most people prefer not to take that route as it is really difficult.” At one point in the conversation we asked if there was any hand over foot climbing? NO, we were assured. There is a proper road the whole way there.
Guess which path we ended up accidentally taking?
When we got to where we thought we should turn and start going up the mountain, we asked some locals which way to go. They pointed at the road they were on. Perfect, right? This seemed too convenient, but we went with it. Within about two minutes of walking up this trail, I was thinking it seemed pretty steep and was already breathing kind of hard. I chalked it up to living at sea level and the fact that now we were up 5000 feet in the air climbing a mountain and my poor lungs and heart weren’t used to this elevation. We kept following the trail that was poorly marked with signs and ended up in a forest with no particular trail. We saw some foreigners traipsing through and confirmed we were on the right route…sort of. We crossed a bridge that wasn’t on the hand drawn map from the inn keeper. Then we started legit climbing up the mountain….without a trail. It sort of just disappeared. We could see a waterfall, so we figured we should just keep going up. So we did. So much for that proper road. We definitely took the one less traveled.
We ran into a cute little dog that seemed to know the way. He came to us, then ran ahead, then came to us again, and it made sense at the time to follow him. He was so cute and seemed to know where he was going. I’m only halfway joking.
We ducked under pipelines, did some hand over foot climbing, and found a real live mountain goat. We finally saw a waterfall that was clearly not our destination as there was no way we could get to it unless we suddenly sprouted wings, no people were there, and there was no cave behind it. I did some scooting through tall grass on the edge of…well, the edge and was finally tucked in a little cove that was at least 15 degrees cooler than the other side with the sun coming down on us. It was beautiful, and in a way, nice that no other tourists had come to this point. This was definitely part of the falls that most tourists never see.
After that we began the uncomfortable journey of going down the mountain with visible trail and only a cute little terrier like dog to lead us. We finally made our way to a normal path where lots of other tourists were that took the easy path. Babies!
We found a village we were supposed to pass through and grabbed an auto back to the inn. Then we enjoyed good food, hot chocolate and each other’s company.
That is India. Take a wrong turn and it affects your whole day. We all lived to tell about it though, and at least saw a waterfall even if it wasn't the one we were wanting, so I’m counting it as a success.